Flooring

Every flooring type compared with cost, durability, DIY difficulty, and best use. Plus hardwood refinishing step-by-step.

Flooring Types Compared

Type	Cost/sqft	Durability	Moisture	DIY	Lifespan	Best For
Solid Hardwood	$6-15 installed	High (refinishable 3-5 times)	Poor	Advanced	50-100+ years (with refinishing)	Living rooms, bedrooms, dining rooms — above-grade only
Engineered Hardwood	$4-12 installed	Medium-High (refinishable 1-2 times)	Moderate	Intermediate	20-40 years	Any room, including basements and over radiant heat
Laminate	$2-6 installed	Medium	Poor (edges swell)	Beginner	10-20 years	Budget-friendly rooms, rentals
Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)	$3-8 installed	High	Excellent (100% waterproof)	Beginner	15-25 years	Every room including bathrooms, kitchens, basements, laundry
Ceramic/Porcelain Tile	$5-15 installed	Very High	Excellent	Advanced	50+ years	Bathrooms, kitchens, entryways, laundry rooms
Carpet	$3-10 installed	Low-Medium	Poor	Professional (stretching)	5-15 years	Bedrooms, family rooms, playrooms

Check for flatness: use a 6-foot straightedge. Gaps should be less than 3/16" over 10 feet.
Fix high spots: grind down with a floor grinder or belt sander
Fix low spots: fill with floor leveling compound (self-leveling for large areas)
Check for moisture: use a moisture meter. Concrete should be under 5% moisture content. Use a vapor barrier (6-mil poly) over concrete.
Fix squeaks: screw subfloor to joists (don't nail — screws hold better)
Remove all debris, old adhesive, staples, and nails
For tile: install cement board (Hardiebacker) over wood subfloor. Never tile directly on plywood.

Acclimate planks in the room for 48 hours
Remove baseboards (carefully — you'll reinstall them)
Prep subfloor: clean, flat, dry
Install underlayment if planks don't have it pre-attached
Start along the longest, most visible wall
Leave 1/4" expansion gap along all walls (use spacers)
First row: cut tongue side off for flat edge against wall
Click planks together: angle long side, press down to lock. Tap end joints with tapping block.
Stagger end joints by at least 6" between rows (random stagger looks most natural)
Cut planks with a utility knife (score and snap) or miter saw
Last row: measure and rip to width, leaving 1/4" gap
Reinstall baseboards (nail to wall, not floor)
Install transition strips at doorways

Clear room completely. Seal doorways with plastic sheeting (dust gets everywhere).
Rent a drum sander and edger from equipment rental
First pass: 36-grit to remove old finish and level surface (go WITH the grain)
Second pass: 60-grit to smooth drum sander marks
Third pass: 100-grit for final smooth surface
Edge sander for areas the drum can't reach (along walls, corners)
Vacuum thoroughly, then tack cloth the entire floor
Apply stain (optional): use a lambswool applicator, work in sections, wipe excess
Apply polyurethane: 3 coats minimum. Light sand (220-grit screen) between coats.
Oil-based poly: more durable, amber tone, 24hr dry between coats. Water-based: clear color, lower VOC, 2-4hr between coats.
Stay off the floor for 24 hours after final coat. No furniture for 3-5 days. Full cure: 2-4 weeks.

Install cement board substrate (screwed and thinsetted to subfloor)
Tape cement board seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and thinset
Find room center and snap chalk lines. Dry-lay tiles to plan layout and minimize cuts.
Mix thinset to thick peanut butter consistency
Apply thinset with notched trowel (1/4"x3/8" for most floor tile)
Set tiles with slight twist, press firmly. Use spacers (1/8" to 1/4").
Check level frequently — use a rubber mallet and level to keep tiles flat
Cut tiles with wet saw (rent one). Tile nippers for small notches.
Let thinset cure 24 hours before walking on tiles
Mix and apply grout with rubber float, working diagonally
Clean grout haze with damp sponge (multiple passes)
Seal grout after 24-72 hours with grout sealer
Caulk where tile meets walls, tubs, and other surfaces (caulk, not grout — these are movement joints)